A journey through the South Island.

Otago v Lions.

The weeks tour of the South Island of New Zealand starts with a three hour drive from our base in Wanaka to Dunedin - the Edinburgh of the south - for the Otago v Lions match. As we drive south, via Roxburgh and Teviot, out of the mountain area the scenery turns from brown to green and becomes more and more like the Borders Area of Scotland. The hotel is in Great King Street a short walk via Fredrick Street and George Street to The Octagon, which is all prepared for the thousands of visitors in red. A few drinks and some food then off to the game a longish walk the full length of Princes Street of the south and more, to The House of Pain - Carisbrook. Disappointed to see three or four thousand seats are not taken - a combination of the price of tickets and Otago not being allowed to play their All Blacks. The Lions, whose starting line up includes the only two Scots left on tour, win 30-19 - the result never being in doubt after 20 minuets. Back to the centre of town and a surprise meeting with Del Harley - who came to Accies as a 17 year-old from Trinity in 1997 - and is currently teaching in Invercargill, who was dressed as for any Scottish International. After a few more drinks and with the bewitching hour well gone, the slow walk back to the hotel. Return to Wanaka on Sunday and a days rest before the journey to Invercargill for the Southland game and another encounter with Del.

The Lions line up for kick-off at The House of Pain.

Two ex Accies (now resident in New Zealand) Del Harley and Paul Wright celebrate after Lions victory.

Southland v Lions.

Another lengthy spectacular drive, this time to Invercargill via the Crown Range, the remarkable Remarkables ranges and the length of the shores of Lake Wakatipu until we hit the lower lands where sheep and cattle rule. As we continue south the land gets flatter and flatter till we reach our destination Invercargill. A town of 50,000 as far south as you can go - next stop Antarctica - spread out over acres and acres and flatter than a pancake.

The weather for their shortest day was good 13 degrees and no rain with a full moon to boot. A pity the rugby did not match! A team of builders, farmers and plumbers losing by only 10 points to a team full of highly paid seasoned internationals - not what the large support of 'people in red' expected or wanted. Why couldn't the game match the weather conditions?

Lions get some quick ball at last!

After the game met Del again and 'young' Barney - who was going off to Queenstown to see if he could grow another six inches by doing the biggest bungee jump in the world! Invercargill's limited number of bars could not cope with the demand, so off to bed early this time. That was good as an early return to base in Wanaka the next morning so as son could play in a foursome of golf against the Brown brothers - one who is Tony the ex All Black, Highlander and Otago Player, now in Japan and the other his brother who plays for Tarbes in France.

Another days rest and walk round part of Lake Wanaka then to Christchurch for the beginning of the 'business end of the tour' and hopefully a meeting with our President and Vice President - Ollie and Walker - if they are not too sea sick!!!.

New Zealand v Lions.

So after a days break with a lengthy walk up the Matukitiki valley towards Mount Aspiring - in 'wall to wall' sunshine and crisp conditions - the big weekend had come. An early start on the Friday with a 450km drive north from Wanaka to Christchurch through the most spectacular scenery you could ask for as we followed the main route north that runs along side the Southern Alps right up the middle of the Island. Again the sun shone all day but as we entered the Lindis Pass that climbs to 1000m we realised all was not well as the convoy of camper vans, lorries and cars moved slower and slower. The icy conditions had its toll and a 40 minute journey to the top of the pass took two hours while some sat and waited at the side of the road for gritters to turn up or those in red scratched their heads over how to put the chains on. Just to compound the beginning of a 'weekend that did not go the way we would have liked', a lorry ran its back wheels into the side of the road and sent a stone up that cracked our windscreen!!

Slowly through the icy Lindas

Once up the Pass we were in MacKenzie Country with views of mountains after mountains as we passed Aoraki - Mount Cook - looking resplendent 50km away over Lake Pukaki and then Lake Tekapo with its back drop of snow covered Alps. Out of MacKenzie Country, down Burkes Pass and onto the main costal route to Christchurch.

Aoraki - Mount Cook - over Lake Pukaki

Christchurch was a sea of red. Bar after bar, street after street - we could have been in Cardiff. The Christchurch people and businesses had gone out of their way to make the Lions supporters feel welcome and ensure there were sufficient extra drinking places for us. Didn't meet up with Ollie or Walker, they decided to spend the evening near to where the boat was, some half hour from the centre of town.

The Saturday started well, even more red in town, until the forecast rain arrived mid afternoon, that was ok could hide inside The Bog, one of the well known Christchurch hostelries. So finally after a few hours on the town off to the game.

From then on the weekend took a decided turn for the worse. The wind had changed to come from Antarctica and although it was from behind us in the stand it was getting chilly. Lots of noise and fireworks as the AB's came out which as far as we were concerned were the last of the fireworks we would see as far as the 'men in red ' were concerned. Their rugby matched the deteriorating conditions, wind, rain then hail leaving us rather cold and with nothing from the Lions to warm us up. Two thirds of the crowd seemed to be for the Lions but their support could not raise the Lions game. So finally much disappointment at a good beating and a 'game plan' seemingly blown away.

Lancaster Park - Jade Stadium - welcome

A brisk walk to the centre of town and the warmth of the heaters in The Bog, which warmed the outside whilst the cold NZ beer cooled the inside. A few more Speight's then time to go, a lengthy wait for a taxi and out of town at 1.30am. There were still long lines of scantily dressed people waiting in the very cold conditions, to gain entry to all the top bars and clubs at that time.

The one that didn't get away?

As the red tide - that has swept over the South Island during last week - decamps to the North Island, I head south back to Wanaka, for me the end of my Lions tour. I will watch the remaining games in one of the Irish bars in Wanaka. I hope to watch Upper Clutha next Saturday before the next test, to see what actual club rugby is like in the Mid Otago league. I've enjoyed my 'tour' and three games - pity about the result that realy mattered.